Micro make up kits
As promised, I will share my stripped down, multi tasking personal make up kit . Great for travel, on the go, or just to simplify. If necessity is the mother of invention, limitation is the favorite aunty of creativity! This simple beauty makeup kit challenges you to only have either 5 items or an upgrade to 10 items inc tools… what would yours be?
After a few years of experimenting with my own kit, I quickly caught onto the mindset that color cosmetics can be broken down into skin base color, dark, light and a version of red ( blood, life) . A use where needed philosophy. Lisa Eldridge’s book, Face Paint , https://www.lisaeldridge.com/pages/facepaint, takes a similar theme defined by the historical use of make up, using the pigments of white, back and red . I was thrilled to read this, as, make up tones can be categorized as base, light, dark and a enlivening ‘blood’ colour - aka our flush.
Let me re-introduce you to the multi use nature of pencils, concealer, and an essential mascara ( and eyelash curlers for us less lashed folks) .
The 5 essentials:
Concealer - this is your eye base, under eye concealer, lip adjuster and ‘base’ all in one. Something that is slightly color correcting and with SPF is ideal, use heavier where needed and very sheer ( if at all) elsewhere to make the skin more uniform.
Flush/life giving pencil - a version that contains red can be magenta, orange-coral, plum, neon pink, bright red to red-browns. You know what suits you best. When you think in color, you can use this anywhere you need a flush ( note, some pigments cannot be used on eyes or lips, so read the label) . Eye creases, lips, cheeks, hairline, chest, use bold or sheer or with lip balm. It’s all in the use of your fingers.
Dark pencil or smudge stick - we always crave eye definition: tight line, smudge line, defined line are all options. Choosing an off black such as a dark ashy brown gives versatility, it can be smudged into the sockets or even fill a brow without turning too grey or blue.
Eyelash curler - Kevyn Aucoin noted this was the step most people miss, it opens and lifts the eye, instantly awakening your face!
Speedy mascara - choose what works for you, personally I love a fast setting, quick building, long lasting with no ‘curl droop’ effect.
5 piece micro make up kit
Add a wee more longevity and luxury :
Setting powder - useful for the eye lids, under eye and the T zone, or to set creamier colours. Great for humid, hot and mask wearing. ALSO, don’t be afraid to flick over the lashes to act as a mascara primer for added texture, grip and volume.
Extra eye pencil or smudge stick in lighter or warmer tone - for the socket, lower liner, smoky eye option, or lid wash… even as a bronzer or contour on the cheekbones if its the right shade.
Two brushes, pointed and weeny for eyes and medium for face - this will keep hands cleaner, plus add precision and blending. Use the same brush for powder then dip into the blush/bronzer/glow. This technique with the residual face powder will actually help with blending.
Mirrored blush-glow-bronze in one - when the car mirror is not option, to do make up anywhere, this is a must have. Choose the size and a universal color that best suits most looks. You can even mix the blush colour with lip balm to make a coordinated lip.
Lip gloss, lip pencil, lip balm or lippy per your outfit, event, or lip care needs. Lipstick can double as a coordinated cream blush.
10 piece micro make up kit
When you think of product function, size, colors, and simplify make up into pigment, oil and wax, you can concoct your own multi-use micro kit. Pop into your bag some hand wipes, or hand sanitizer and tissue for cleaning hands before and after, and you’re good to go! If you tend to mix with your pro kit too, make sure your formulas are stable, test compatibility and texture, and use aseptic techniques for mixologist magic!
Up next… looking after yourself as a make up artist…
Summer Skin
Summer skin…
Ahh, light and breezy, clear and smooth, hydrated and protected. Wouldn’t we like that all year round? Pandemic or not?
My favorites for year-round summer skin are SPF, an excellent healing lip balm, light exfoliation and hydrating mists under a moisturizer. This goes for my bathroom cabinet as much as my set bag and make up kit on set. Using them on the regular, I have found, you can extend your need for a facial, reducing breakouts and dry skin. Of course, always be guided by your own practitioner’s advice, especially if you have any sensitivity, skin or allergy issues.
Some of my hero products, for years now, are the following:
Nuxe lip balm, Reve De Miel. Honey, and beeswax rich, this is the only lip balm you’ll need to nourish lips overnight or just one application in the AM. I find wearing masks very dehydrating with all the mouth breathing! It has a thick matte finish and you only need a little. It looks good on all genders and plays well under lipstick or gloss, even for a chapped lip. Not vegan, a bit tricky to find in the USA ( Citi Pharma’s in Paris hoard it) but when you do, its gold! I am never without this product, for both myself and for my kit.
Light exfoliation- chemical or slightly mechanical, it’s up to you. Make up will always sit better if you prep beforehand, making moisturizers more effective too. Dermologica microfoliant, Koh Gen Do’s gommage gel, or the overnight cult classic (but wonderfully stinky) P50 lotion by Researche Biologique. If these are out of reach, then a good old slather of face oil or vaseline followed by a warm face towel and a very gentle rub helps take off surface dryness.
Mists: my favourites are Emma Hardie, Skindinavia ( post make up or maskne) Herbivore rose water, Caudalie or Mario Badescu. I look for the gentler ( no alcohol) version and be careful around the eyes if it has essential oils. I like to add a touch of essence to my own, to make it more hydrating. Make sure it has a humectant in it such a glycerine or hyaluronic acid, so it really hydrates if used solo during the day. I usually spray am and pm before moisturizer.
SPF: You really have to see what fits you and your skin, your skin tone and your lifestyle. As a ‘sensitive eye’ person, I cannot be more grateful to Colorescience for their 3 in one eye cream, and most of their facial SPF’s are excellent too. That eye cream would be my ‘base’ for a paired down, low key holiday make up bag! ( hmmm… the next blog topic!) For a great finish but lighter SPF, same goes for Eborian CC and Trinny London BFF. These 3 brands come in a variety of tints, from pale to medium-deep tones and make the skin feel hydrated and can be worn alone as a light skin base. A light touch of power is enough to set but still look fresh. Because I don’t always want color, esp. transferring all around my neckline, I opt for SuperGoops’ Unseen sunscreen on the neck ( and face) which is completely colorless and make up friendly, suitable for pale to very deep skin . La Roche Posay Anthelios (50 SPF) is a much loved favorite by make up artists, parents and skin care lovers - it works well into the skin and plays well under make up. Sheer touch by Neutrogena is a good, lower budget option. One thing I’ve noticed as I get older is that sun spots can still appear, even with SPF. The best advice, that I’ve had success with myself, is to seek shade, cover up and wear a hat. When you drive, wear sunscreen on your face, neck and hands, perhaps even a scarf - that pesky low sun hits our hands, necks and cheeks, and that sun exposure clocks up when it’s daily!
What are your favorite summer tips and products you are excited to share? Do let me know!
Next Blog topic- your micro /travel make up bag challenge! If you were allowed ONLY 5 make up items, plus two tools …what would stay and what would go?
Blog content for VanessaBlancheLee.com is written from a personal perspective, drawn on her own experience, and is not intended to diagnose, prescribe or treat. Enjoy finding out and choosing what works for you.